Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Colour Print Film Split Bath Experiment Part 1


So I got 1000ft of Vision Print Film I intend using for pictorial purposes. It is process ECP-2B, which is CD-2 based, I have dry CD-2..

As Jon Irenicus would say; "It is time for more... experiments. The pain will only be passing; you should survive the process."

This is the third test and first one worth showing.

The recipe I used is as follows;

Bath A:
7g/L CD-2
9g/L Sodium Sulphite

Bath B:
40.5g/L Sodium Carbonate
1.0g/L KBr

Both images shot in unfiltered heavy indoor tungsten.

The 50D ain't too bad, the density range for the layers on the 50D is right in the middle, a little thin on the range but pretty reasonable, of course it's a real low contrast scene and low contrast film, it would probably excel for a high contrast situation outdoors.

On the print film, all the layers have a wide range, cyan and magenta have the lowest dMin starting at nothing basically, but the range is pretty good, dMin and dMax together should be higher for better quality, dMin is slightly high on the yellow layer, and dMax a bit too high.

Future tests will increase the amount of CD-2, KBr, and I would add KI if I still had some.. would be very nice to. Oh well, benzotriazole and phenidone in Bath A are also on the list.

Once I get a good formula, I may compare it to a CD-3 version instead (ECP-2 is CD-2 based, ECN-2 is CD-3, E-6 is CD-3, C-41 is CD-4) to see the difference on the print film (ECP-2 film).

Print Film Test #3

Monday, June 6, 2011

Film Re-cycling Experiments Part 1.

After ripping out 70 odd ft of Vision1 500T (15 years old) out of a bulk loader and sitting it on my floor in the light (to make room for new Vision2 50D and Vision3 500T for bulk loading... still got another 700 ft of Vision1 500T in cans), I thought of something to do with it.

Cut some of it up, loaded it in a tank, processed it in some Xtol, now then I chilled a weak solution of potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide to bleach the film back to all silver halide (just silver bromide) slowly to make a high contrast, fine grain, slow speed b&w film.. though I can try putting it through C-41 to get the CMY dyes (wont be a real colour image, but can treat it as a b&w during scanning for chromogenic b&w for IR dust removal), or just regular b&w processing.

The stuff still in the can and old expired film sitting around I have that's now shitty quality (Kodak Gold 100 from 2000), I can try just bleaching the fog (specks of elemental silver) away back to silver halide to restore the speed and denisty range.

If I want to keep it as useful colour film, that will have to be gas bleaching, so that it doesn't wash out the anti-halation layer and the spectral sensitisation dyes etc.

I also figured I could bake some film out in the sun until it is all reduced to metallic silver, and gas-bleach it back to silver halide for a high contrast, fine grain, slow colour film.